Beyond Paris: 30 other amazing places to visit in France
By Anna Richards
France is a holiday favourite for a reason. As off-the-beaten-track destinations enjoy their moment in the limelight, it has classic, timeless appeal. It’s not hard to see why: mountains that rise to almost 5000 metres, lush vineyards, a coastline both wild and rugged and soft with glassy seas. Let’s not forget Paris which regularly tops lists as the most visited city in the world.
This is also a country with more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other in the world (632), and one that’s deservedly proud of its fare, from 10-course tasting menus to croque monsieurs.
There are plenty of reasons why this is the year to visit. September sees several French cities, including Paris, Lyon and Marseille, host the Rugby World Cup and preparations are in full swing. It couldn’t be a better time to be exploring the country by train, with TGV (high-speed) trains connecting the French capital to Bordeaux, Lyon and Strasbourg in under two hours.
And 2024 looks no less exciting. France is hosting the Olympic Games and luxury hotel-on-wheels sleeper service Midnight Trains launches its first services from Paris.
Whether your holiday style is sightseeing, soaking up the sun or saturating in fine food and wine, these 30 ideas promise not to give you Paris syndrome.
Best for culture
Escape to the chateaux of the Loire
There are more than 300 chateaux in the Loire, from vast palaces sporting hundreds of turrets, to chateaux built on aqueducts crossing rivers, to “modest” castles now used as family homes or hotels.
Particular highlights include the Chateau de Chambord, the largest in the Loire, with 440 rooms and impeccably manicured gardens; Chateau de Chenonceau, a 16th-century castle built on a bridge spanning the River Cher; and Chateau de Saumur, which sports a decorative spire covered with gold leaf. See www.experienceloire.com
Shop at Lille’s 900-year-old flea market
Lille’s braderie (or flea market) – dating from the 12th century and still the largest in Europe – includes 10,000 exhibitors. So many moules-frites are consumed when it takes place on the first Sunday of September, that little heaps of mussel shells line the streets.
If you can tear yourself away from the party atmosphere and Flemish beer, visit swimming pool-turned-gallery La Piscine de Roubaix, 20 minutes away. Among the artists with permanent exhibits are Ingres, Picasso and Rodin. See en.lilletourism.com
See a show in the Palace of the Popes
As the Edinburgh Fringe Festival tumbled onto the world stage in 1947, so did the Avignon Festival across the Channel. Held annually in July, it’s similar to the Fringe in that it lasts the best part of a month and includes more than 1000 shows, workshops and dance performances.
The city itself inspires creativity. Home to seven successive popes during the 14th century, it’s impossible to stroll the terracotta ramparts of the walled old city without feeling like you’re travelling back in time, and hidden in the historic courtyards are cafes, bars and boutiques.
Avignon Festival runs from July 5–25, with OFF Avignon, the alternative arts festival, running almost in parallel from July 7–29. See Avignon Festival; OFF Avignon
Visit the Atelier des Lumieres in the City of Light
Paris has always been a paradise for art lovers, but how do newcomers compete with old favourites such as the Musee d’Orsay and the Louvre? L’Atelier des Lumieres, which opened in 2018, burst onto the scene with an explosion of colour. The floor-to-ceiling immersive sound and light experience hovers between exhibition and show and is the first digital art centre in Paris. Previous exhibitions have included Klimt and Van Gogh, with Chagall and Klee programmed for 2023.
Tickets to L’Atelier des Lumieres from $17.
Sing sea shanties at Brittany’s Celtic festival
You only have to look at the abundance of black-and-white striped Breton flags decorating buildings here to see this is a region that’s proud to be different. Now in its 52nd year, the Lorient Interceltic Festival is only growing in popularity. For two weeks every August, the port town of Lorient comes alive with Breton dancing, fancy dress, sea shanties and concerts. Little Lorient, usually home to just over 50,000, swells to accommodate over 700,000 visitors.
Best for families
Surf into the sunset at France’s mini Sahara
Mirage-like, the 100-metre-high Dune of Pilat is the largest sand dune in Europe, making a stark contrast with the cerulean sea where it meets the Atlantic. The dune in itself is an attraction that will keep adventurers of all ages busy, but don’t miss the sea and sky-based activities, which include surfing, paddleboarding and paragliding. With a panoramic view over the ocean, the Dune of Pilat also offers one of the best sunset views in the country. See ladunedupilat.com
Take a dip and a spin in the Annecy mountains
Lake Annecy was famously described as the Pearl of the French Alps by French geographer Raoul Blanchard, and there can be little argument that it’s deserving of the name to this day. France’s cleanest lake is equipped with paddleboard rental, kayaks and pedalos, and the surrounding mountains serve up year-round thrills.
Summers are made for hiking, mountain biking and paragliding, while the winter brings snow-sure slopes aplenty. A largely flat bicycle route goes all the way around the lake, taking about half a day to complete (rent bikes from one of the many outlets in town).
Be a lighthouse (keeper) on Brittany’s Ile Vierge
Staying in a lighthouse is mystical. The tall stone lighthouse of Ile Vierge, Finistere was built in 1845, and inhabited by keepers until 2010. Now lovingly restored, it has many more home comforts than the lighthouse keepers would have been accustomed to, but has kept plenty original features. The lantern tower has 360-degree panoramic views, accessed via a steep, spiral staircase, and the only sounds you’ll hear will be waves and sea birds. It’s enough to bring out the child in anyone.
See Abers Tourisme.
Spot seals in the Somme
The sandy flats of the Bay of the Somme drain six rivers into the Channel, creating a marble-like area of wetlands that’s a haven for birdlife. But the big pull – particularly for young nature-lovers – are the seals, with the bay home to both the harbour and grey variety. There are no jeeps on this marine safari: instead, hire a kayak or, more novel still, ride on horseback through the shallows.
Step back in time at Puy du Fou
Done Disneyland? It’s time to try out Puy du Fou. With four replicas of historic villages and 26 shows – including the burning of a Viking longship and gladiator fights in a Roman amphitheatre – it’s like Center Parcs and Horrible Histories combined. There are even specially trained rooks which swoop around the park picking up litter. Better still, as Puy du Fou is in the heart of the Vendee, there are plenty of real castles nearby to keep the adults happy, too.
See www.puydufou.com
Best for foodies
Go on a foodie cycle on the ViaGusta
Lyon may be known as France’s gastronomic capital, but the wine-growing region of Vienne-Condrieu, a stone’s throw south, is giving the city a run for its money. Last year saw the launch of the ViaGusta, an annual fine-dining tasting experience done by bicycle, during which four highly acclaimed chefs serve up delicately presented small plates to hungry cyclists over a 12-kilometre stretch of the ViaRhona (a bicycle greenway running from Geneva to the Mediterranean). Naturally, there’s plenty of wine to wash it all down. Don’t leave without sampling condrieu. See www.vienne-condrieu.com
Sip sangria in French Catalonia
Tapas, seafood, sangria and a sparkling sea might have you wondering which country you’re in – but in Collioure, the picture-perfect Catalan harbour town just north of the Spanish border, rest assured you’re still in France. A honeypot for artists, during the 20th century Picasso, Matisse and Braque were some of its notable regulars.
Visit for the Wednesday or Sunday markets, when the already kaleidoscopic town bursts with colour and stimulates every sense. If you go to the harbour early enough, you might see traditional wooden Catalan fishing boats bringing in the catch of the day. See www.collioure.fr
Over-indulge in the gastronomic capital
The difficulty in Lyon isn’t finding somewhere to eat, it’s choosing. Ranking fifth in the world for Michelin-starred restaurants, it packs a punch for its size. Many first-time visitors fall into the trap of visiting the old town’s bouchons – traditional “mother’s cooking” restaurants, except that Lyonnaise mothers served up offal rather than turkey dinosaurs and chips. For more variety, and generally better quality, take a food tour. Why is Lyon’s praline brioche pink? What is the unappetising sounding “silk worker’s brain”? And can you eat vegan in France’s meat-heavy capital? (Yes, and exceptionally well.)
See lyon-france.com
Drink among the vines in Bordeaux
Of all of the wine regions in France, none is so well known as Bordeaux, often considered the finest wine region in the world. There are plenty of domaines to choose from, many of which pair their vintages with a delicious selection of regional cheeses and charcuteries, but more are adding seasonal vegetables into the mix. Who knew butternut squash and celeriac could match so well with bordeaux?
For wine tastings see Chateau Troplong Mondot
Feast on flammekueche and gingerbread in Strasbourg
Strasbourg is widely considered to have the finest Christmas market in France, but with mouth-watering markets year-round and plenty of tasting tours, this picture-perfect city isn’t just for Christmas. In December it may be more festive than Will Ferrell prancing about in yellow tights, but the immense Gothic cathedral and half-timbered houses are always a feast for the eyes – and that’s before you get started on the cuisine. This city sits squarely in the middle of the Alsace Wine Route, and culinary specialities include flammekueche (similar to a thin, crispy white-sauce pizza), gingerbread and choucroute. See visitstrasbourg.fr
Best for couples
Hit the beach in Calvi
Corsica remains relatively unexplored so if you’re the type of couple who would prefer not to run the risk of bumping into your neighbours, a trip to the medieval citadel of Calvi is a safe bet. Jutting out like a sandcastle into the Mediterranean, the narrow little streets reveal a wealth of seafood restaurants, cocktail bars and sun-drenched terrasses.
Some of the finest beaches in the country, if not Europe, line the coastline between Calvi and Cap Corse, and – if you rent a car and go beach-hopping – it’s not difficult to find one all to yourself, even in peak season.
Smell the lavender in Provence
Every June, the lavender fields of Provence turn the vivid purple of a Parma violet, and the warm air is perfumed with the scent of the flowers in full bloom. But how do you avoid the snap-happy masses that descend upon Provence in June brandishing selfie sticks? Head to Crillon-le-Brave, a fortified village, for views of Mont Ventoux (a name familiar with disciples of the Tour de France) and the quieter lavender fields nearby. See www.france.fr
Spot street art in Eastern Paris
Central Paris is an evergreen choice for first-time visitors, but staying in edgy, grungy Belleville helps to save pennies and skip cliches. (Comparatively) affordable rent in the quartier has seen an influx of street artists, and the murals are a feast for the eyes. Forget the flashy rooftop terraces which dominate the city centre, bars here are intimate, cozy and full of character. Mixologists at unpretentious cocktail bar Combat can whip up blends beyond your wildest dreams.
Taste fossil-infused champagne
Some of the fossils at Champagne’s La Cave aux Coquillages are more than 45 million years old, and many winemakers believe it enhances the flavour of the champagne grown in the area. The tipple is, of course, said to be an aphrodisiac – but if the bubbles don’t go to your head, emerging to the bucolic view of tiny villages, windmills and neat rows of vines surely will.
Sun-worship on the Cote d’Azur
Characterised by palm-lined boulevards basking in the heat of the Mediterranean sun, long, languid days spent sipping a chilled rose with your toes in the sand, and fishing boats bringing in the catch of the day – it’s not difficult to see why the French Riviera has remained a firm favourite with visitors for centuries.
There’s a buffet spread of seaside towns to choose from, but our pick is pastel-hued Menton. More laid back than many of its flashier neighbours, you can even walk into Italy from here (don’t miss the clifftop botanical garden, Giardini di Hanbury). It’s also particularly vibrant when hosting the annual Lemon Festival in February. See cotedazurfrance.fr
Best for outdoor adventure
Hit the slopes in Serre Chevalier Vallee Briancon
With 81 pistes, more than 80 per cent of which sit above 2000 meters, Serre Chevalier is one of the few places that has remained relatively unruffled by this winter’s lack of snow, with its season set to keep going until at least mid-April.
Almost 150 kilometres of runs will keep the pickiest skiers busy for days on end, but for a truly novel experience, try out the zipline – which whizzes you more than half a mile down the mountain in just over a minute – for a bird’s-eye view over the snowy slopes. Summer is no less exciting, with world-class hiking and mountain biking. See www.serre-chevalier.com
Hike Corsica’s toughest trails
The beaches may get the glory in Corsica, but did you know the island is also home to some of Europe’s toughest but most rewarding hiking trails? Snaking the bony spine of the Corsican mountains is the two-week GR20 often extolled as Europe’s toughest trek. For those short of time, the Mare e Monti (Sea and Mountain) South from Propriano to Porto Vecchio takes five to six days. Day hikers head to Vizzavona (the north/south divide on the GR20) where a pleasant two-hour walk takes you to the Cascade des Anglais (the English waterfall). See www.visit-corsica.com
Climb in the Calanques National Park
France’s most spectacular natural playground was formed almost 120 million years ago, leaving 26 rocky inlets – known as calanques – spread over the 25-kilometre stretch between Marseille and Cassis. Most can only be accessed by the water or via steep hiking trails, but this does mean that it’s possible to find a quiet calanque, even in the height of summer. If travelling by road or sea instead, head to the Calanque de Morgiou, where King Louis XIII famously went to fish tuna. See www.calanques-parcnational.fr
Cross the Jura Massif by bike
Infatigable adventurers tackle the Grande Traversee du Jura, a hilly 375-kilometre cycle route close to the border with Switzerland, which starts in Montbeliard and finishes in Culoz. But you don’t need to have been born in clip shoes to enjoy Jura – often described as France’s last “wild” region – by bicycle. Electric bicycle tours cruise through the Jurassien vineyards, taking in some of the most spectacular waterfalls in the area. Particularly impressive is Baume-les-Messieurs. See en.montagnes-du-jura
Kayak through the arches of the cliffs of Etretat
Formed over millions of years of erosion, the curious sea arches and spindly rock pillars of France’s Alabaster Coast have inspired artists, photographers and writers – most notably Monet, who painted Etretat more than 50 times. Once a fishing village, Etretat itself has ballooned into a town of tourist traps, but it’s worth coping with the crush: the chalk and limestone cliffs never fail to deliver the wow factor. Avoid the endless onslaught of tour buses and rent a kayak or a paddleboard to get up close with Etretat’s plethora of natural wonders. See en.normandie-tourisme.fr
Take it slow
Ride the rails in the Cevennes
The GR 70 is a hiking trail which retraces the exact route taken by Robert Louis Stevenson in 1878, immortalised in his book Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes. At just over 273 kilometres, the trail may be the ultimate way to experience France’s heartland at your own pace, though Le Cevenol, the scenic train which traces the route, takes some beating. In five hours, you’ll chug by rail across the 297 kilometres between Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes, passing through a part of France which time forgot, with extinct volcanoes, millennia-old monasteries and Renaissance festivals. See SNCF
Cruise along the Canal du Midi
A UNESCO World Heritage site, the 362-kilometre Canal du Midi, which aimed to link the Mediterranean with the Atlantic, was built in the late 17th century. From Toulouse, it joins the Canal de Garonne to reach Bordeaux, and eastwards splits into two branches, one finishing at Narbonne and the other at Agde. The best way to experience it is by renting a boat and exploring the canal at your own speed, with the walled city of Carcassonne a particular highlight. See Locaboat
Spot beavers after dark in the Gorges du Tarn
Troglodyte villages, precipitously perched chateaux and a gorge which runs so deep (500 metres in places) that it’s almost soundproof, the Gorges du Tarn are unique to say the least. The landscape is exceptionally biodiverse and is a twitcher’s paradise, home to kingfishers, several types of eagle and even vultures.
At ground level, otters, beavers and chamois flourish. For your best chances of beaver-spotting, take a canoe or kayak tour after sunset.
Enjoy farm-to-fork food and slow living in the Dordogne
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Perigord in rural Dordogne is the perfect place to escape and unplug. With lush, green vineyards, square-towered chateaux and limestone plateaux, the views are a feast in themselves – and that’s before you get to the markets. Bergerac’s market (Wednesday and Saturday) is deserving of its international reputation (truffled goods are a particular highlight), but don’t miss the smaller towns: the Saturday market at Sainte-Foy-la-Grande is particularly fine. See www.guide-du-perigord.com
Coast along the Breton shoreline in a vintage VW Camper
The French Riviera often gets the glory, but don’t overlook Brittany’s wild and varied 2696-kilometre coastline. Between sheltered sandy coves, islands shaped like paint splatters and pink granite, you could spend a lifetime exploring this region and still not experience all it has to offer. Here, a laidback lifestyle reigns supreme: there are more than 200 campsites, so hire a vintage camper and explore at your own pace. See Vintage Camper
This is an edited extract from the Telegraph UK and is reproduced with permission.
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