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Helen Goh’s Welsh rarebit with leek and cider

Helen Goh
Helen Goh

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Welsh rarebit.
Welsh rarebit.William Meppem

Also known as Welsh rabbit, this tasty and satisfying cheesy spread on toast was, apparently, a dish popular among working-class families in Wales who couldn’t afford to eat meat. Over time, the name was changed to rarebit, probably to loosen the association with the dish as a poor man’s substitute for rabbit. Whatever you call it, it is indeed easy, cheap and delicious. I have added a sliced leek to the base of the sauce for a delicate allium flavour and used cider instead of the more common brown ale for a fresher flavour. Served alongside a celeriac and apple salad, it makes a fine lunch or Sunday-night supper.

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Ingredients

  • 50g unsalted butter

  • 1 large leek (140g after trimming), washed and quartered lengthwise, then sliced finely

  • ¼ tsp fine sea salt

  • 30g plain flour

  • 120ml cider (or brown ale or stout)

  • 150g of your favourite cheddar or hard cheese, coarsely grated

  • 2 tsp grain mustard

  • 5 tsp Worcestershire sauce

  • freshly ground black pepper

  • 1 large egg yolk

  • 6 slices bread (I like granary bread, but you could also use crumpets or other good-quality bread)

  • cayenne pepper, to serve

FOR THE APPLE & CELERIAC SALAD

  • ½ celeriac – about 300g after peeling

  • 1 large pink lady apple, unpeeled

  • 10g parsley leaves, roughly chopped

  • 80g mayonnaise

  • 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar

  • ¼ tsp tabasco

  • ½ tsp salt

  • ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper

Method

  1. Step 1

    Melt the butter in a medium saucepan placed over a moderately low heat. Add the leek and salt, stirring regularly with a wooden spoon until the leek softens (about 5 minutes). Add the flour and continue to stir for 2-3 minutes until it starts to take on some colour, then gradually add the cider (or ale or stout). Cook for about 2 minutes, stirring gently until the mixture thickens, then remove the pan from the heat and add the grated cheese, mustard, Worcestershire
    sauce and a good grind of black pepper. Keep stirring until the cheese has melted, then add the egg yolk and stir until incorporated. Taste to see if it needs another little pinch of salt or pepper. At this point, the mix may be scraped into a container or bowl and kept refrigerated for up to 3 days.

  2. Step 2

    To prepare the salad, grate or julienne the celeriac and apple (I use a Japanese slicer with a medium-toothed blade), then place in a large bowl with the parsley leaves. Combine the remaining ingredients in a screw-top jar and shake vigorously to combine. Pour over the celeriac and apple and toss gently to combine. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

  3. Step 3

    When ready to make your Welsh rarebit, preheat the grill element in your oven. Arrange the slices of bread (or crumpet) on an oven tray and grill until light golden-brown. Turn the pieces of bread over and grill the other side until light golden brown, then remove from the oven (keep the grill on) and spread each slice generously with the cheese mix (about 70g per regular-sized slice of bread), making sure you cover the crusty edges, too. Place the tray back
    under the grill for 2-3 minutes until golden and bubbling. Remove the tray from the oven and sprinkle each slice with a pinch of cayenne. Slice the rarebits in half if they are large pieces and serve immediately with the salad on the side.

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Helen GohHelen Goh is a chef and regular Good Weekend columnist.

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