One of Canada’s most scenic regions can be done by train
By Tim Richards
To the west of Toronto, bounded by three of the Great Lakes, lies a triangle of territory known as the Ontario Peninsula. Part commuter country and part farmland, it’s dotted with fascinating places within a train ride of Canada’s largest city – including these three.
Niagara Falls
Niagara Falls’ sheer power is a thing of wonder.
As I step into the Niagara Parks Power Station, I draw my breath in wonder. This former hydro-electric facility is a vast space with a lofty roof, beneath which sit numerous huge blue turbines. The complex reopened as a museum in 2021, and its exhibits are interesting and varied – ranging from the science of electricity generation to the significance of water to First Nations people.
Nearby are the mighty falls. From the terrace in front of the Table Rock Centre there’s a marvellous view over the jade-green water, as it drops away over the horseshoe-shaped ledge to the depths below. It does not disappoint up close, as I take in the gushing torrent and the enormous cloud of spray.
Within the centre, I try out two attractions. The first, “Niagara’s Fury”, follows an animated film about the falls’ geological history with an immersive experience in which participants stand on a moving platform and are showered with simulated rain and snow. Even better is “Journey Behind the Falls”, in which I take a lift 40 metres downward, to explore tunnels which open beneath the flow. It’s extraordinary being so close to that force of nature.
Windsor
A sunset view of the Detroit skyline from across the river at Windsor, Ontario.Credit: Mike Cassese/Reuters
Facing Detroit, Windsor regularly receives international visitors interested in a drink – because the legal drinking age is lower in Canada than in the US. Clearly I should explore the bar and brewery scene, so I head first for its oldest district: Sandwich. Opened in 2017 within historic brick buildings, the Sandwich Brewing Co’s output includes Prairie Sunshine wheat beer and White Bronco IPA. It also serves fancy sandwiches, naturally.
Across town is Walkerville Brewery, its vast brick warehouse interior decked out with steel vats and an atmospheric bar. Its beers follow traditional styles with some interesting outliers including a cider made with champagne yeast, a dandelion-infused pils, and the Rob Roy Scotch Ale. I like the taste of the latter, and it seems a perfect segue into my final Windsor attraction.
A short walk away is the sprawling distillery of Hiram Walker & Sons, where I find the “JP Wiser’s Experience”. This tour leads our group up above the huge tanks in which spirits are created. Following that, we sip different styles of whisky while learning about the complex history of the local distilling industry, shaped by wars and other upheavals.
Stratford
The Tom Patterson Theatre comes to life for the Stratford Festival.Credit: Ann Baggley/Stratford Festival
Most arts festivals run a few weeks, but in Stratford it’s a half-year affair. Founded in 1953 as a Shakespeare festival, the Stratford Festival has evolved into a major celebration of theatre stretching from April to October. The Bard still stars, alongside a diverse variety of plays and musicals across several venues (I see Chicago one day and Hamlet the next, on my visit).
Between productions, it’s easy to amuse yourself in the genteel city centre. Two fun activities are the Chocolate Trail, and the Bacon & Ale Trail, on which a set of vouchers are redeemed for taste sensations across town.
At the Boar’s Head pub you can score on both trails: jalapeño poppers wrapped in bacon served with a glass of beer, followed by a brownie with fudge sauce and strawberries. It’s a fun way to spend a day – as the man himself wrote in The Winter’s Tale, “For a quart of ale is a dish for a king.”
THE DETAILS
FLY & RIDE
Air Canada flies from Australia to Vancouver and on to Toronto. From Toronto, trains of VIA Rail reach Niagara Falls, Windsor and Stratford. GO Transit also runs trains from Toronto to Niagara Falls.
STAY
Sheraton Fallsview is near Niagara Falls and the amusement strip of Clifton Hill; rooms from $US205 ($309). Best Western Plus Waterfront in Windsor has sweeping views of the Detroit River, rooms from $US98 ($150). The Bruce is a stylish, classically themed hotel near theatres in Stratford, rooms from $US380 ($575).
The writer was hosted by Destination Canada and Destination Ontario.
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