The surprising thing about this epic rail trek across the US
By Tim Richards
To my left are the still blue waters of Puget Sound, with misty islands and promontories in the distance. To my right are glimpses of houses with million-dollar views, as my train slips by them on its shore-hugging rails.
I’m aboard Amtrak’s Empire Builder, a long-distance train which runs 3500 kilometres from Seattle to Chicago, and for the first time on a sleeper train I have a view from both sides of my compartment.
Amtrak Empire Builder lounge car.
It’s a happy accident, which came about because Amtrak suddenly cancelled my sleeper berth and transferred me into the sit-up Coach section for this two-night trip. Desperately trying to rebook back into a roomette, I happened upon the lower-level Accessible Bedroom, a wheelchair-friendly space which is only released to the public if no disabled passengers need to book it.
To be honest, it’s not much fancier than the standard roomettes on the upper level, with the same functional armchairs which transform into bunk beds by night. However, it is a lot larger, with a toilet and wash basin included. And two windows, from which I’m receiving my left-and-right view.
A station with grandeur
My epic rail trek across seven US states (Washington, Idaho, Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin and Illinois) began illustriously at Seattle’s marvellous King Street Station. Resembling an opera house with gleaming white interiors festooned with decorative plasterwork, chandeliers, mosaics and marble, this 1906 edifice was a hugely confident statement in the railways and the wealth and prestige they brought to the Pacific Northwest.
The Empire Builder traverses both the coastal Cascade Mountains and Rocky Mountains.
As the sun sets on my first evening aboard, the train breaks free of the city’s fringes and the rugged nature of the terrain becomes clear. Running north then east, the Empire Builder must forge its way through the coastal Cascade Mountains before tackling a bigger challenge, the Rocky Mountains.
Meanwhile, I head to the dining car for dinner. Amtrak’s dining cars are functional rather than fancy, with vinyl booths and easy-to-wipe-down tabletops. Their staff can verge on the brusque, slotting you in with random strangers as they fill up the tables for each sitting.
There’s something fun about the randomness, however, guaranteeing you’ll meet an interesting assortment of fellow travellers. My companions on this occasion are Sharon and Laura, respectively a retired toxicologist and engineer. Chatting over my Mexican souffle, a surprisingly tasty baked salmon, and a hefty berry cheesecake, I learn that they’re friends who often travel together, and decided to catch the Empire Builder as a holiday.
Mountains and plains
The next morning I aim for an early start, partly to use the communal shower while it’s still pristine, and partly to secure a spot in the observation car before we pass through the Rockies. I’m joined at breakfast by Jim, a former teacher and labradoodle breeder who’s travelling with his granddaughter. I finish my omelette, a good effort which is accompanied by potatoes, a sausage, and a biscuit (what the Americans call a scone) in lieu of toast, then head to the observation car with its curving high windows.
Scenery changes around every bend.
About two-thirds of the carriage contains comfy seats facing outwards, and from these, we see the sun rise over a beautiful landscape of trees and lakes as we pull into Whitefish. We’re on the edge of the Rocky Mountains now, and the terrain becomes increasingly craggier as we approach Glacier National Park. Rock faces soon loom above the train, and we slowly wind past ever more impressive peaks – laid out before us, rocky and bare above the tree line.
Then, mid-morning, the mountains cease, and we’re deposited into seemingly endless plains of yellow grass under a big blue sky. We’re in Montana now, so-called Big Sky Country, and the eastern part of the state is dotted with small settlements which were often founded as the railway reached this area in the late 19th century (hence the “Empire Builder” nickname of Great Northern Railway founder James Hill). Stops along the way give glimpses of small-town life, including a set of grain silos in Cut Bank, and the old-school Oil City Saloon in Shelby. In the latter town we’re stationary for some time due to two very long freight trains having priority; a regular cause of delays when travelling via Amtrak.
After the drama of the mountains, this simplified scenery leads to a quiet and contemplative day, with lots of reading between glances out of my room’s windows. Lunch is spent in the company of Al, a retired Filipino-born aircraft mechanic; who then joins myself, Sharon and Laura for dinner that evening, as ever-increasing amounts of twinkling lights in passing towns suggest a gradual return to a more crowded world.
Following the Mississippi
On the second morning I disembark at Union Station in St Paul, Minnesota, another grand terminal which has had a recent makeover. The adjacent light rail takes me over the Mississippi River to Minneapolis, and I spend two days in this Midwest city seeing the sights: including taking in a show at its excellent Guthrie Theater, and eating interesting local foodstuffs including the Juicy Lucy (a burger with cheese in the middle), a tater tot hot dish (basically a casserole with potato gems), and Swedish-inspired dishes at the restaurant of the American Swedish Institute.
Superliner Roomette during the daytime.
Then, back at St Paul, it’s aboard the Empire Builder again for the eight-hour daytime run to Chicago. This time I’m seated on the upper level in Coach, and it’s more comfortable than I expected. Legroom is generous, and there’s an elevated view of the surrounds as we follow the Mississippi River out of town.
Around midday, we pass across several islands to enter La Crosse, Wisconsin. From here the Empire Builder abandons the Mississippi to track east past pretty rural towns and wetlands, heading toward the Great Lakes. I buy lunch from the café on the lower level of the observation car. Its catering tends toward microwaved burgers and turkey sandwiches, but it fills a gap and I cart it upstairs to chat with my fellow passengers as we close in on Chicago.
Mid-afternoon, the atmosphere in the observation car has become lively; its occupants are chatting and laughing, with a group around one table playing a boisterous game of cards.
“We’re on a train!” shouts one of them suddenly. “All aboard, whoo-oo!”
Which makes me think that one of the best things about the Empire Builder is meeting lots of locals aboard. It’s not a luxury rail cruise or a tourist joyride, but a working train which is accessible to all. Most Americans – like Australians – might still prefer to fly, but you can’t beat the sociability of the train.
Ride
The Empire Builder train runs daily from Seattle (or Portland) to Chicago with sleeper fares from US$650 ($972), see amtrak.com
Stay
Hotel Andra has stylish Scandinavian-style decor in downtown Seattle, with rooms from US$225 a night. See hotelandra.com
Four Seasons Hotel Minneapolis offer luxurious accommodation in downtown Minneapolis, with rooms from US$545 a night. See fourseasons.com/minneapolis
Canopy by Hilton Chicago Central Loop has railway-themed decor and a lively lobby cafe-bar. Rooms from US$180 a night. See hilton.com
The writer travelled courtesy of Brand USA, Visit Seattle, Meet Minneapolis and Choose Chicago.
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