Train review: First class on ‘the best train in Thailand’
By John Borthwick
THE JOURNEY
Bangkok to Hat Yai in southern Thailand is a 16-hour, 940-kilometre journey. Special Express 31 “Thaksinarath”, operated by State Railway of Thailand (SRT) is a modern, Chinese-built, diesel-electric train, which departs daily at 14:50.
THE CLASS
The first class sleeper cabin, twin share, is one of just 12 and is located in the last car.
On the platform at Hat Yai Junction train station.Credit: Alamy
CARBON EMISSIONS
25 kilograms per train passenger on this route, compared with 180 kilograms for air travel.
BOARDING
The train departs Bangkok’s very new, multi-billion dollar Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminus Station. Boarding announcements are in Thai and English. There is ample seating at ground floor level where passengers wait before boarding. Tickets and ID are inspected before we move upstairs to the departure platform.
Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminus opened in January.Credit: AP
THE SEAT
My comfortable sleeper cabin has upper and lower bunks. For a premium fee you can purchase exclusive occupancy. Having booked a single, I expect to share the cabin but end up as the sole occupant (SRT doesn’t book mixed gender, solo passengers in the same compartment). The broad, single bench seat accommodates two travellers facing in the same direction but well separated by a fold-down table.
First class on board the Special Express 31.
Before dark, the staff prepare the lower seat (which I have booked) and, if necessary, the fold-out upper bunk with bedding. Each bunk has a monitor displaying the train’s location, speed and other data. A few hours into the trip my screen freezes and won’t reboot. There are two universal power sockets but no Wi-Fi, and also a small wash basin. Showers (towel supplied in cabin) and toilets are at the rear of the car.
BAGGAGE
Luggage is carry-on and there seems to be little restriction on the size. The common space beneath the lower bunk and seat would easily accommodate multiple large suitcases.
FOOD + DRINK
Passengers can order a meal from a menu, which is later delivered to the cabin. My selection, a salty, gluggy chicken and rice tray set is far from appetising. Functional railway filler but not delicious Thai fare. There’s a fairly austere dining car where you may also eat and enjoy non-alcoholic drinks. No booze is allowed on the train but there is no inspection.
ONE MORE THING
First class seats are very limited so reservations are strongly advised. Having booked a voucher online it is then vital to arrive at least an hour before the train’s departure because your ticket must be collected (and only on the day of departure) from a distant section of the adjacent Bang Sue commuter station. This awkward system will probably change as the new station evolves.
THE VERDICT
Express 31, currently thought of as “the best train in Thailand”, is a comfortable, efficient way to cross southern Thailand in almost a single bound. It runs on one-metre, narrow gauge rails and is not a high speed or bullet train service. It is rocky at times, and has numerous station and lay-by halts. Sit back and enjoy Thailand’s ever-changing scenery at an average speed of around 60 km/h. Enclosed in an air-conditioned cabin you have limited opportunity to interact with fellow travellers, which is half the fun of usual Thai train travel. I arrived relaxed at Hat Yai Junction at 08:15, 50 minutes behind schedule but no problem. See dticket.railway.co.th
OUR RATING OUT OF FIVE
★★★★
The writer travelled at his own expense.
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